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America On-Line Ovation: 5 Flags
America On-Line Cruise Critic Rates American Safari Cruises

Imagine off-the-beaten track, up-close-and-personal eco-tourism combined with the pampering of a luxury cruise. Imagine an in-your-face encounter with a bear or humpback whale in the morning, followed by a perfectly chilled martini and fresh oysters at cocktail hour. And while the travelers on the big ships are listening to yet another medley from "Cats," you could be taking advantage of the twenty hours of daylight by kayaking after dinner with sea otters. These experiences are the basis of American Safari Cruises.

American Safari Cruises currently sail two luxury motoryachts, each about 120 feet in length. The emphasis is on familiarization with the flora, fauna, geology and native cultures of Alaska. Instead of joining the conga line of ships up and down the Inside Passage, the size of American Safari Cruises' vessels grants them access to inlets and coves, narrows and straits the big ships can't even approach. In addition to visiting key destinations like Sitka and Juneau, you might just as likely spend the night in Pelican, a fishing town built on a stilted boardwalk, hoisting a few with the locals or shooting pool till the wee hours of the morning.

With only a handful of passengers, you can expect the expedition leader to take your desires into account. And passengers get a lot of bang for their buck - with the exception of tips, these sailings are truly all-inclusive, with all beverages and most shore excursions -free of additional charge. Like most luxury yachts, a central salon is the main congregating area aboard. Local artwork is featured throughout, with traditional work by native American craftsmen as well as contemporary expressions of other Alaska artists. A bar separates the dining area from the galley. The aft doors of the salon open onto the sports platform, where passengers can board the launch or one of four two-passenger kayaks. A promenade circles the entire yacht. A spiral staircase links all public decks, including the main passenger deck; a library and lounge, and the bridge. On the flying bridge, are a hot tub, deck chairs, kayak and Zodiac storage.

Food relies heavily on Alaska's wonderful seafood. Because of the yacht's size, ease of movement into small byways, and the small number of meals to be prepared, it is possible to provision truly freshly and locally, and prepare each dish to order. A radio call from a fishing camp offers a large hunk of that afternoon's catch - a 180 pound halibut, which graced our table the next night. Fresh crab, salmon, rockfish and live oysters round out the seafood offerings. Each dinner includes a non-seafood entree as well, which ranged from chicken to prime rib. Preparation is simple and tasty - not a lot of frills, over-the-top saucings or elaborate presentations, and each dinner was accompanied by a decent choice of red and white wines. Cocktail hour each night featured a different hors d'oeuvre choice. Breakfasts start with self-served coffee, pastry and fruits and juices. Those who wish a heartier fare can enjoy a cooked to order meal which commences as soon as all passengers get around to gathering around the table.

Daily lectures and slide shows give voyages a somewhat structured feel. We were privileged to be visited by a pair of native Americans from their village at Kake, who shared their songs, dances, regalia and history with us.

Shore experiences include guided excursions conducted by shoreside operators and trips mounted by the expedition leader. In one case, passengers travel by kayak under their own power, or by motorlaunch, up a small stream flowing through a grotto of solid marble. On another occasion, a chance sighting of a brown bear ashore results in a hastily organized launch trip for several passengers, cameras firing like muffled machine guns, to within thirty feet of the bemused bruin, who obligingly stood on his hind legs, swam, in short, did everything short of submitting to a fashion makeover to make every photographer's day.